Stanley & Tarkine, Tasmania – Where the Road Ends and the Map Runs Out
If you’ve seen all the tourism awards, you already know a visit to Stanley’s a good decision.
Perched on Tasmania’s North West coast, this historic seaside town makes the perfect base for exploring one of the most underrated regions in the country – the Tarkine. From wind-whipped coastline and ancient rainforest to excellent produce and small-town hospitality, this corner of the island rewards slow travel and a curious spirit.
Start in Stanley
It’s easy to see why Stanley is often the first drawcard. The Nut dominates the skyline, rising straight from the sea. Climb it for a short, steep walk with one of the best coastal views in Tasmania, or take the chairlift if you’d rather save your legs.
Down below, wander the heritage streets lined with stone cottages and old-fashioned shopfronts. At sunset, grab your camera and head to Godfreys Beach to watch penguins waddle ashore, one of the few places in Tasmania where you can see them this close to town. TIP: Be sure to read up on penguin viewing etiquette before you head off.
There’s no shortage of places to stay, from cosy cottages and boutique hotels to beachfront stays that look straight out to Bass Strait.
Stanley’s also the perfect spot to stock up before hitting the road. Grab breakfast and coffee in town, pick up picnic supplies, and fill the car. You’ll need them where you’re going.
Take the Tarkine Drive
The Tarkine Drive covers around 130 kilometres through cool temperate rainforest, winding rivers, and tall eucalypts – an easy loop that feels a world away from anywhere else. From Stanley, it’s roughly a 250-kilometre round trip, making it a comfortable 1-2 day adventure with time to stop and explore along the way.
The road is now fully sealed, so you can reach the wilderness without needing a 4WD or a map full of question marks. It’s the kind of drive that slows you down without trying.
About an hour out of Stanley, the journey begins at Kanunnah Bridge Picnic Area, named after the Aboriginal word for the Tasmanian Tiger. Nearby, Sumac Lookout opens to sweeping views across the Arthur River, surrounded by dense rainforest and towering gums.
At Julius River Forest Reserve, you’ll find excellent picnic facilities and two short walks through lush undergrowth, both under an hour, and both the kind of walks that make you forget what day it is. Continue on to Lake Chisholm (an easy 30 minute return walk), where you’ll discover a permanently flooded limestone sinkhole filled with inky coloured water, surrounded by ancient myrtle forests.
The Milkshakes Hills Reserve offers another peaceful stop, with picnic spots tucked among eucalypts and low hills. And at the end of the loop, Trowutta Arch is a must-see, a natural stone arch framing a vivid green sinkhole that looks like it’s been lifted from another world.
Out to the Edge
Keep following the road west and you’ll reach the end of the map, quite literally. Marrawah is the last town before the ocean takes over, famous for its wild surf, fishing and lush green farmland. Services are few and far between this far west, but a stop at the Marrawah Inn is a must. Here you can tuck into local seafood or a steak and trade stories with locals at the bar. If you play your cards right, you might just get a bit of inside intel about the area and some must-do experiences.
This stretch of coast has deep roots in Tasmania’s original shack life – families constructing weatherboard huts on the dunes, spending summers fishing, surfing, and getting away from it all. That culture still runs deep today. Marrawah is home to Tasmania’s premier surf event, the West Coast Classic, drawing surfers from across the country each year. The three beaches – Ann Bay, Mawson Bay, and Green Point – offer long, glassy rides when the swell is westerly and the wind offshore. The local surf community is famously welcoming and happy to share advice, but visitors should note that some of the best breaks are on private land and everyone’s expected to leave the beaches as pristine as they found them.
Arthur River and Beyond
Further south lies Arthur River, a small settlement where the Tarkine nudges the Southern Ocean. Here, Arthur River Cruises (known locally as ‘the red boat’) glide upriver into country few ever see, a rare chance to experience the Tarkine’s ancient beauty from the water. Cruises usually run from September through summer and bookings are essential.
From here, you’re looking straight out across the Southern Ocean with no landmass until Argentina – so while the map technically continues, the sense of “end of the road” is absolutely real. Stand at the Edge of the World and you’ll understand why it’s called that.
Return via Smithton
On your way back, make a stop in Smithton, a hardworking town surrounded by some of Tasmania’s best dairy country. Take a tour of the Duck River Meadows Robotic Dairy and La Cantara Artisan Cheese Factory, a fascinating insight into the future of dairy farming and the ancient art of cheese making, which can be booked through the Smithton Visitor Centre which includes cheese tastings.
Stay the night at Tall Timbers, or keep the engine running and return to Stanley for one last stroll around the wharf, preferably with an ice cream in hand.
A Few Local Tips
- Take a guided tour – Get access to places most visitors miss and learn more about the region from those who know it best.
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Travel slowly – Distances aren’t huge, but the roads are winding and there’s plenty to stop for.
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Pack snacks and fuel up in Stanley – Options are limited once you’re deep in the Tarkine.
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Respect the environment – Camp only in designated areas, stick to formed tracks, and take your rubbish with you.
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Expect all four seasons – Spring can deliver sunshine, wind, and rain – sometimes all in the same hour.
- Download a touring map – here
Stanley and the Tarkine isn’t designed for crowds, and that’s exactly why people fall for the region.
Image credits – Renee Thurston feat. Ben Little